The world of fragrances
The world of fragrances is fascinating, but...
What aroma profiles are there?
How long does a fragrance last?
What other properties can fragrances describe?
How are the essential oils assigned to Yin & Yang and thus to the 5 elements?
Contents
Aroma Profile
In order to describe and differentiate a fragrance, the perfume industry has defined 15 aroma profiles. We have already come across these in one place or another, but let's take a closer look at what they are called and how they describe a fragrance.
By the way... the aroma profiles should not be confused with the fragrance compositions that describe a perfume with a certain fragrance structure. At this point I would simply like to list a few: Aquatic, Clean, Chypre, Creamy, Fougère, Fresh, Gourmand, Leathery, Metallic, Musky (see animalic), Oriental, Exotic, Powdery, Smoky, Sensual, Tobacco.
Let's take a look at the Aroma Profile of the essential oils (often also written essential oils = fragrances of plant origin), on the basis of which we will provide a differentiated description of the individual essential oils in the aroma matrix:
1. animalistic
The aroma profile "Animalic" describes a subliminal heavy note. Animalic fragrance compositions are warm, sensual and often have erotic and aphrodisiac nuances such as those found in jasmine or orange absolute.
Note: In the perfume industry, notes of animal origin, such as musk etc., are mainly used here. Here we only consider the essential oils (of plant origin).
2. balsamic
Balsamic describes the sweet, vanilla-like notes in a fragrance. Balsamic fragrances are smooth, soft, warm and sweet. Well-known essential oils with this aroma profile are cistus, benzoin (resin), frankincense, myrrh and sandalwood.
3. camphor-like
Camphoraceous describes a scent of camphor, as can be perceived in spike lavender, for example. It probably reminds most people of the scent of mothballs.
4. citrusy
Citrusy or citric will probably be well known to everyone. It describes the light, fresh, tangy scent of citrus fruits such as lemon, bergamot, lime, bitter orange, orange, tangerine and mandarin.
5. coniferous
Coniferous describes a fresh, green and resinous scent, like cut green pine cones. This scent is familiar to us from pine, spruce and fir needles, cypress, cedar and juniper.
6. earthy
This fragrance reminds us of rain-dampened earth, forest soil, moss or roots, as found in patchouli, vetiver, oakmoss and oud (eaglewood), for example.
7. flowery / floral
The term floral is self-explanatory. The term floral is also often used. The perception of the scent of flowers, such as rose, jasmine, tuberose, lily of the valley, iris and violet. The nose sits in a bouquet of flowers, so to speak.
8. fruity
It smells deliciously of edible fruit. The diverse aromas can include pineapple, apple, banana, pear, strawberry, grapefruit, blueberry, raspberry, blackcurrant (cassis) and redcurrant, cherry, apricot, melon, orange, plum, quince, raisin, sloe and lemon. These mostly delicate aromas often occur in combination and can also overlap. The fruitiness is usually accompanied by a certain sweetness.
9. green
The scent "green" reminds us of crushed green leaves, fresh grass, juicy leafy greens or aromatic herbs. Green notes include all those fragrances that can be associated with the color green in nature, such as basil, coriander and petitgrain.
10. herbaceous
Herbaceous describes the scent of herbs. Herbaceous notes include lavender, rosemary, clary sage, mugwort, wormwood, thyme, sage and bay leaf.
11. narcotic
Narcotic fragrances are said to have an erogenous and intoxicating effect. They are beguiling, intense and heavy. In addition to narcotic notes of animal origin (no essential oils), numerous flowers such as jasmine, tuberose, hyacinth or ylang-ylang, wintergreen also have this intoxicating fragrance character. Narcotic fragrances should be used with caution in terms of quantity, as an excess can quickly become intrusive and unpleasant.
12. minty, minty
This fragrance describes the refreshing scent experience of the crushed leaves of the mint plant.
13. resinous
The scent "resinous" describes intensely fragrant resins such as those in myrrh and frankincense. The scent is warm, balsamic and spicy. It is intense and long-lasting, such as in benzoin (resin), elemi (resin), frankincense, galbanum, myrrh, styrax (resin), cistus and tolu.
14. spicy
Spicy reminds us of culinary spices such as cloves, cardamom, cinnamon bark, pepper and ginger. Spicy fragrances are often warm, comforting and intense and exude a feeling of coziness and sensuality.
15. woody
Woody describes the scent of heavy, exotic woods such as sandalwood or cedarwood.
Fragrance Notes Profiles
The division of a fragrance into top note, heart note and base note.
The perfume industry further differentiates a fragrance according to its volatility, the time it takes for an aroma to evaporate.
1st head Note
The scent of the top note is initially the most intense, but also the quickest to evaporate. It is said that it is no longer perceptible after approx. 10-15 minutes.
The top note describes aromas that are perceived immediately after opening the container. The top note conveys the first and often the decisive impression of a fragrance composition. They are often citrusy, green, fresh and Airy fragrances. The volatile fragrance molecules that open the door to the next fragrance phases evaporate very quickly. Already 10 - 15 minutes After application, there is hardly anything left of the top note fragrance.
2nd heart note
The scent of the heart note only appears after the top note has evaporated and lasts for 2-3 hours.
After the top note has faded, about 15 minutes after applying an essential oil to the skin, the heart note follows. Its aromas gradually unfold together with the base notes. However, the heart note determines the character of the fragrance composition. The heart note describes flowery, fruity and herbaceous notes. The middle phase usually lasts two to three hours.
3. base note
The scent of the base note is initially masked by the top and heart notes. It only makes a prominent appearance after the two have evaporated. However, it is particularly long-lasting.
The base note smells the longest, it is perceived for several hours. The base note therefore ensures the depth but also the durability of a fragrance composition. The base note contains woody, resinous and earthy fragrance nuances.
Fragrances are built up according to a fragrance pyramid and develop over time.
Yin & Yang fragrance profiles
and their assignment to the 5 elements
The subdivision of a fragrance into Yin and Yang and derived from this the 5 elements.
It is also possible to categorize fragrances into two groups, which have Yin and Yang qualities.
Yin flavors are more relaxing and cooling fragrances. They create an inward and relaxing movement. These are given to the Element water assigned.
Yang flavors on the other hand, are stimulating and warming fragrances. They create an outward, stimulating movement. These are transmitted to the Element fire assigned.
In between, there are mixed forms such as yin in yang and yang in yin. These aroma profiles demonstrate both. The one directed inwards and the one directed outwards.
Yin in Yang means that inward movements are already present in the fragrance. These are transmitted to the Metal element assigned.
Yang in Yin means that the first outward movements are already present in the fragrance. These are transmitted to the Element wood assigned.
The Element earth forms the center, its movement is centrally strengthening the center.
Our 15 aroma profiles described above can also be assigned to Yin and Yang:
1. yin
Floral, fruity, balsamic, resinous, woody, citrusy, earthy and green are assigned to the Yin group.
2. yang
Spicy, camphoraceous, herbaceous, minty, coniferous, narcotic and animalistic are assigned to the Yang group.
Yin/yang hybrids form accordingly when a fragrance smells balsamic, for example, but also coniferous, as is the case with pine needle oil, for example. We can therefore assign pine needle essential oil to the metal element.
